Here be dragons

The Lap no. 8 - D-Day -10 Months

Aug 08, 2022

This weekend, I joined a group of paddlers for a day trip around Mizen Head, one of the most intimidating features of the Irish coastline. Conditions were sunny and calm—in other words, unusual for Mizen. This was a bucket list trip for me and a chance to expand my comfort zone.

Anything with “Head” in the name is a place where things have the potential to get real. These rocky outcroppings divide seas and tidal zones and are often home to roaring tide races and exposed conditions. They also mark milestones in the trip: Malin Head is the top of Ireland, where you leave the Wild Atlantic behind. The Shannon runs between Kerry Head and Loop Head, an imposing crossing. Dublin Bay has heads on either side with powerful tides.

We live right around the corner from Mizen Head, Ireland’s most southerly point. It’s possibly the most exposed patch of water on the entire route and could be the crux of the whole trip, depending on the conditions.

Mizen Head, “here be dragons.” (Emojis mine).

The Mizen separates the Atlantic and the Celtic Sea. It marks the “edge of Europe” to mariners. It’s the last piece of land passengers on the Titanic would have seen as they steamed west to meet their fate.

The Mizen is exposed to swell from every direction. Waves from as far away as Cape Horn have the potential to travel all the way to the shallow shelf at the Head, unleashing chaos when they arrive, even on the calmest days. When waves hit the cliffs, they rebound and cause confused conditions. Powerful tides can amplify the sea state and add overfalls, boils, and rips into the mix.

To get around Mizen Head safely on a rough day, your only option is to go way around it—up to seven miles out to sea—or pass through a narrow gap in the rocks and follow an eddy line—something only a kayak can do.

According to one local history, The Mizen has been the scene of more shipwrecks than we will ever know.

“It is impossible to tell how many ships and boats have been wrecked on this coast. In many cases, no one survived to tell the tale and the boat was so damaged in the wreck that it was unidentifiable or disappeared altogether.”

Wrecks were so frequent over the years that wrecking supported the local economy. The insurer Llyod’s of London employed salvage crews, and locals picked valuables off the wrecks.

In 1985, a former Taoiseach (prime minister) of Ireland, Charlie Haughey, had to be rescued by the Baltimore Lifeboat when his yacht was pushed into the rocks at the base of Mizen Head. He thanked his rescuers with a round or two at the local pub as soon as he was on land.

“Don’t epic.”

The thing is, I won’t be going around Mizen (or any of Ireland’s heads) in the kind of conditions it’s infamous for. Rounding the Mizen safely is about picking the right day and committing totally when you go. It’s not a place to try anything fancy or daring—like Swiss Alpinist Ueli Steck cautioned about the Himalayas “Don’t epic up there.”

Sunday was the right day. The Atlantic was calm by Atlantic standards, and the Celtic Sea was flat. The sun was shining, the wind was light. People were sunbathing on the boat ramp at the base of the cliff—an exit of last resort on a bad day.

Rounding Mizen Head. STOKED. You can see the visitor’s center on the cliff in the upper right-hand corner.

How to visit Mizen Head

The easiest and safest way to take in Mizen Head is on foot. There’s a visitor’s center with sublime views and a footbridge over the chasm separating the head from the mainland. It’s a must-visit if you come to West Cork. You can also visit Mizen Head virtually.

Local tip: You can visit nearby Brow Head for free. There are ruins, stunning views of Mizen and the Celtic Sea, and never any crowds.

P.S: Celebrating the greatest adventure

This week, Dominique and I celebrated one year since we set out on the ultimate adventure together! Her love, support, and tolerance for endless nautical nonsense are what make all my other adventures possible.