Trip Report - Bere Island Recce

The Lap no. 14 - D-Day - 9 Months

Sep 23, 2022

On the last weekend of summer, with each day at this latitude noticeably shorter than the day before, I finally got my weather window for a 3-day shakedown. The purpose of this trip wasn’t a mileage target or destination but just to live out of my kayak 3 days and suss out any issues with my gear and fitness.

You can find my photos from this trip here.

DAY 1

Friday is market day in Bantry. Before getting on the water, I had a big lunch with Dominique at Le Kiosk, the Afro-Caribean food truck at the market. Perfect fuel for a long afternoon on the water.

I set out across Bantry Bay in Mirror-calm conditions to Leahill, an abandoned slate quarry on the Beara peninsula. I counted over a dozen dolphins along the way.

Heading west, I aimed for Ronicorrig Mor, a rock with a 19th-century lighthouse. Approaching the lighthouse, I began to feel the Atlantic. A slight swell was breaking on the rocks around the light, well marked as a hazard to shipping.

I stopped for the night at Lonehort harbor on the Southeastern shore of Bere Island, a sheltered cove with a white sand beach (or maybe “off-white”) alongside an Irish Army firing range, complete with “KEEP OUT” signs. According to archeologists, Lonehort was once a Viking harbor.

“Good evening, Valentia”

In the interest of safety and to practice doing everything exactly like I will next year, I filed a daily trip report (TR) with Valentia, one of the three Irish Coast Guard stations. I called in the morning to let them know where I’d be for the day and again in the evening to report that I was safely off the water. If you don’t turn up, they don’t come looking for you, but they at least know where to look if you’re reported missing.

For more on how this system works and some vital safety advice, check out David Horkan’s blog post about visiting Valentia Marine Radio Station.

Sunrise at Lonehort Harbor. Photo/ Charles Daly

DAY 2

After coffee and breakfast in the cove, I packed my tent and sleeping bag, put on my wet layers from the day before, and set out at sunrise. I rounded the corner, past the bunker at the old army base, through the patch of water that would be off limits if they had been training on the range, and down the exposed south shore of the island.

The cold morning was driving a land breeze down the Bay that pushed me along and kicked up small but confused seas and clapotis along the sea cliffs. A lobsterman, hauling a line of pots, gave me a wave and the “you’re out here in that thing?” look.

I cut my lap around the island short to make it back to Lawrence Cove for an early lunch. A light headwind blew until I rounded Lonehort going the other way, where I would have had a tailwind if it kept blowing.

After lunch on the slipway, I headed West again, this time on the inside of the island, alongside the channel Castletownbere’s fishing fleet takes to sea.

Past Ardnakinna Lighthouse, I spent some time in open water before continuing along the cliffs and sea stacks to Pulleen Harbor.

Returning to Lawrence Cove, I spent the night camped in the backyard of the Bere Island Lodge. The camping fee is €10, paid in the local shop/post office.

Shipwreck off Bere Island. Photo/ Charles Daly

DAY 3

I returned home the way I came, but this time I handrailed along the Beara Peninsula, exploring every cove, having lunch on the water, and holding my nose past the salmon farms.

Sea stack near Bere Island. Photo/ Charles Daly

Lessons learned

The big takeaway: I need to do more yoga. At the end of each day, my back, arms, and hands felt fine, but my legs were in agony after all that sitting. I made some small adjustments to the boat, but the real issue is my hamstring flexibility.

Pacing was something that went well. I kept my heart rate where it should be, like a brisk walking pace, and day 3 felt easier than day 1 as I settled into a rhythm.

What I love about multi-day trips is the way you feel at the end of the day. You’re tired, but you’re burned out because all the things that cause burnout are back in the real world. Microadventures, like a 3-day trip, are a great way to experience this feeling and still keep your job.

Gear notes

The most clutch piece of kit on this trip was my Patagonia DAS Light belay jacket. I brought it along “just in case” and ended up wearing it every morning from the time I got up until I put on my thermals for paddling. This is the perfect off-the-water outer layer, especially in spring and fall.

Shoutout to my sponsors: Resilient Nutrition and 3FE coffee for keeping me nourished and caffeinated.

Thank you, Kokatat

I’m stoked to announce that Kokatat is coming aboard as the official gear sponsor of The Lap! They will be providing a Gore-Tex bib and top as well as a lifevest, purpose-built for expedition sea kayaking, with pockets for all the essentials. As any paddle-sports enthusiast knows, Kokatat makes the best dry gear in the world: sustainable, rugged, and American-made.

Stay tuned for a post all about what I wear to stay warm, dry, and safe out there.

Team Fox Update 🦊

The folks at the Michael J. Fox Foundation say the new Team Fox fundraising platform will be up in early October. I hope to have my page live around then. Stay tuned for updates.

Thanks for reading,

-Charlie

Thank you to Mike Jones for coaching and guidance.

Kokatat is the official gear sponsor of The Lap.