Week 2 & Portnoo

Not many miles, but they were the miles I needed

Week 2 was mostly spent in hot seaweed baths and under the flapping cover of a glamping tent in the front garden of a kind family in Enniscrone who adopted me for the duration of the weather delay.

I had been prepared to do this whole trip on “hard routine,” but I’m not about to turn down extra comfort when offered. It goes a long way this time of year. There was snow on Nephin, a peak in the distance where I had paddled from.

I only got on the water twice during the second week of the trip, but both moves were critical.

The first was an hour and twenty minute hop across Killala Bay to Enniscrone to set myself up to be stuck somewhere with a vibe and good food, where I could prepare to cross Donegal Bay.

The only full day was my 31-mile Donegal Bay crossing.

Another weather day and some tendonitis in my forearm were waiting for me on the other side along with a pub meal at the Rusty Mackerel and untold cups of “white tea”—which in Ireland means tea with lots of milk in it—at the Sliabh Liag visitor’s center. I still drink coffee to wake up and keep my arms moving all day, but tea is perfect when you’re constantly trying to hydrate and get warm.

When the weather broke, I paddled under Sliabh Liag, Europe’s highest sea cliffs, their tops lost in the mist.

Around the corner, a 2 meter (6-7 foot) north swell funneled into the sound between Malin Beg and Rathlin O’Birne where it jacked up to I don’t know how many meters. A calm landing at a gorgeously constructed slipway at Malin Bay awaited when I was through it.

In the morning, with a fresh breeze pushing me on, I got around the next corner to Glencolumbkille Beach where a visiting family invited me in for more cups of tea while I waited for the wind to drop a little.

I spent the afternoon of Day 16 under more cliffs and sea stacks in a headwind and lashing rain. Brutal. Beautiful.

At Portnoo, facing another couple of weather days, I called a local B&B. My hosts, Mary and Michael met me at the pier and refused to take payment when they heard what I was doing.

I’ll be moving again tomorrow after some much needed rest, dryness and, of course, more tea.

Week 2 (April 12-18)

Distance paddled: 36.6 nautical miles (67.78 km)

Trip total: 197.6 nautical miles (365.95 km)

Longest day: 31.4 nautical miles (58.1 km)

Paddling days: 1.5

Weather days: 5.5

Total progress* (up to April 22nd):

*This includes my 2023 attempt, mileage not accounted for in my “trip total.”

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Thank you to everyone who donated to the Michael J. Fox Foundation for Parkinson’s Research!

P.S. When I’m not having adventures, I’m helping other people write about theirs. If you or someone in your circle has an amazing story to tell, I'd love to hear it. I have some availability for new ghostwriting and editing projects.

— Charlie

Kokatat is the official gear sponsor of The Lap.

The lap will be fueled by Resilient Nutrition’s Long Range Fuel and bars.

CH Marine will be providing a VHF radio and other safety equipment.

Camp kit and cooking gas provided by Paddle & Pitch. Wool baselayers by Aclima. Trolley by KCS. REAL Field Meals at a discount from Adventure.ie. Discounts from GreatOutdoors.ie. Expedition coffee by 3fe.