Trip Report: Kinsale to Schull

The Lap no. 41 - D-Day - 8 Weeks

I kicked off the 3-day shakedown last Friday evening with fish & chips at The Speckled Door, a pub on the Olde Head of Kinsale. The walls are decorated with nautical antiques and photos of the most famous local shipwreck--the RMS Lusitania, torpedoed 11 nautical miles (20k) off the Olde Head in 1915. Charts on the walls indicate the notorious tide race off the Head--a more relevant hazard to my plans than U-Boats.

Dominique dropped me off at Bullen’s Bay, where I would spend the night in a field. We unloaded my gear in Ikea bags and lifted the kayak off the roof.

A kiss goodbye, then only one way home: Paddle.

Rounding The Olde Head of Kinsale.

This was the final shakedown trip before the big trip, a chance to put all my training into practice and test my gear on an unfamiliar and exposed stretch of coast.

Day 1 - Olde Head of Kinsale → Ardfield

Easterly winds had been blowing for over a week, and small craft advisories had just been lifted when I got started on Saturday morning. This meant there was a lot of water still moving around.

The approach to the Olde Head of Kinsale was lumpy, with waves rebounding back off the Head and causing confused seas. Rounding the head, I could feel the spring tide, but there was no real race or overfalls, and smoother water awaited me on the other side.

Courtmacsherry Bay, aiming for those grey lumps in the distance.

After the Olde Head, I crossed Courtmacsherry Bay, rounded Seven Heads, and crossed the next bay. I finished in Ardfield, near Galley Head. A challenging and rewarding first day.

Day 2 - Ardfield → Castletownshend (Stopping for a surf session and barrel sauna).

The crux of the morning was Galley Head. When I got there, I didn’t like what I was seeing: A much stronger headwind than forecast and messy wind-over-tide conditions.

“Don’t be over smart when you know nothing about chop…”
-The Wolf of Wall Street

I decided to have a beach day at nearby Red Strand while I waited out the conditions. After some surfing, bracing, and rolling, I relaxed and dried my thermals in West Cork Sauna’s mobile barrel sauna in the parking lot.

Bullens Bay, Co. Cork.

Waiting was the right call. The wind dropped after lunch. I rounded Galley Head and crossed the next bay to Glandore, with miles of gently rolling ocean to myself in all directions. I finished for the day in Castletownshend, where I met Mike Jones (who paddled around Ireland in 2012) and his family.

Day 3 - Castletownshend → Schull

I got a late start (7:00 AM) on the last day and paid for it, having to hug the cliffs to stay out of nasty offshore winds.

I ran a playful tide race at the Kedges, rounded the Baltimore Beacon, and finished with an exhausting but fun crossing of Roaring Water Bay, island-hopping through the whitecaps to stay out of the wind as much as possible.

Jon Hynes and the good folks at Fastnet Marine & Outdoor Education Centre greeted me with tea, biscuits, a hot shower, and a much-needed debrief.

A direct route from Kinsale to Schull, not including stops and handrails.

Struggles

This trip served its purpose in putting all my work to the test. Weaknesses were exposed, and strengths were revealed.

The headland of my fear - As a friend reminded me, self-pity and the urge to quit are always worse in the dark. The most nerve-wracking moments were on dry land the night before I got going, listening to the waves and my tent flapping in the breeze.

The biggest stress was needing the trip to work out. I had to push that thought aside and take this trip one stroke at a time, rather than worrying about what my performance meant for the next trip.

Relief came from taking a deep breath, evaluating the conditions, and making a decision.

Decision fatigue - I underestimated how exhausting it is to make every decision on your own out in exposed water. I relied heavily on friends and mentors on shore for second opinions regarding weather and local knowledge about the route.

One thing this trip made clear: I’d be happy to have some paddling partners on the gnarlier sections of the Irish coast. My comfort zone is much smaller on my own and won’t always match the Atlantic, even on a good day. Conditions that would be fun with a buddy can be terrifying solo.

Wins

There were some tough lessons, but I also need to acknowledge what went well and celebrate the success of this trip as more than just preparation for something else.

I “did it scared” - I never let fear boil over into panic. Taking things one stroke, one headland at a time, I kept going just a little farther. My original destination was Baltimore, but in the spirit of stretching, I continued on to Schull.

I wanted to keep going - Approaching Schull, I took a hard look towards Crookhaven in the distance, the next stop on the way around Ireland. Driving home, I told Dominique, “I could have just kept going…” The next morning, I was sore, but I wanted to get back in the boat. This is a good sign.

”So cold in Ireland” - Bodysurfing in my shorts between rounds in the sauna reminded me how dangerously cold the water is this time of year without the right layers. Kōkatat Gore-Tex kept me dry and warm all weekend.

I had been warned by previous ‘round Ireland expeditions that you wear your warmest layers a lot on this trip. That said, July is warmer and calmer than April. My layering system passed the test on near-freezing morning starts.

I can’t expect balmy conditions in July, but warmer weather and more daylight will make life easier for sure.

Thank you, KCS - My KCS trolley arrived as I was packing. This piece of gear made landing and launching easier and stowed nicely in the hatch.

Thank you, Team Fox donors! 🦊

Thank you to everyone who donated to The Michael J. Fox Foundation for Parkinson’s Research this week: Barbara Sutton, Crickett Kerrebrock, Amber Olson, Patricia McIntosh, Ken Simon, and Mark Galvin.

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Thanks for reading,

-Charlie

Thank you to Mike Jones for coaching and guidance.

Kokatat is the official gear sponsor of The Lap.

The lap will be fueled by Resilient Nutrition’s Long Range Fuel and bars.

Expedition coffee by 3fe.

CH Marine will be providing a VHF radio and other safety equipment.

Tent and cooking gas provided by Paddle & Pitch. Trolley by KCS.

REAL Field Meals at a discount from Adventure.ie.